Seedlings!

BunsenH

Plant
In the spring, my tofu-fed VFT put out a flower stalk, and I tried to be thorough about cross-pollinating the flowers. I knew that letting the plant go to seed would take a toll on it, but I wanted to have enough plants that I could divide them into groups for different diets. Having several plants for each food type, ideally genetically identical, would let me compare how the plants did. Unlike the various forms of propagation by division, seeds don't have identical genes. On the other hand, some variation in the plants would give a better comparison for how different foods might affect VFTs from totally different genetic backgrounds. It's a tradeoff.

I got 108 seeds in total. Given my lack of experience, I had to guess at when they should be removed from the flowers. Too soon and they wouldn't be mature; too late and they'd start losing viability, according to what I read on-line. I went with taking them, flower by flower, when each flower was clearly dying and drying.

I bought three plastic trays of bakery items to convert to "pots". These were about 4 cm deep and 20 cm square, with removable lids that I could use as trays to contain water. I cut lots of holes in my "pots", and filled them to the brim with a slurry of peat moss (from a garden centre) in water (rain or melted snow, if I recall correctly) as a growth medium. This was probably a mistake. I should have used a mixture of peat moss with perlite and possibly sand, so the medium would aerate better.

I marked the edges of my "pots" to create a grid, and planted the seeds at the grid locations. I did this by dampening the end of a wooden toothpick and using this to pick up a single seed, then to place it where I wanted it. I pressed the seeds gently into the soil surface, shallowly, not enough to submerge them. When I was done, I covered the seeds with a very thin layer of fine peat moss, just enough to cover them, and misted this with water until it was moist. Then I placed the "pots" in bright indirect light.

For weeks. And almost nothing happened. There seemed to be a few fine white threads that appeared, looking like they might be roots growing the wrong way. On the other hand, they might have been cat hair. Our cat's fine hair gets everywhere. The only plant that appeared didn't look much like a VFT: much too dark green, and the leaves had the wrong shape, assuming that any leaves after the cotelydons should have had at least vestigial traps.

Eventually, I gave up. I assumed that the seeds were infertile, or I'd planted them so incorrectly that none of the VFTs made it above the soil. I decided to give the mystery weed plant a bit more water and light, to see if I could identify it. I kept the soil around it slightly damp, and put it in direct sunlight. I let the other two "pots" just dry out.

And a couple of weeks after that, I suddenly noticed one bright-green dot. Near the mystery plant, the area that was slightly damp. In case it might have been a VFT, I got the entire pot slightly damp, and was rewarded a couple of days later by a few more tiny sprouts, approximately in the grid locations. So I continued with the water and sunlight. I'm now up to 11 VFT seedlings, identified by their bright-green colour and the seed coats that some of them still have attached. And I got rid of the mystery weed. I've gotten the other two "pots" damp again, and put them in the sun as well. There isn't any sign of activity there yet.

I've been playing with the idea of scuffing up the soil surface, using something like an old toothbrush or comb, in case the seeds were too-deeply covered by dark wet peat moss to be triggered by light. I'm undecided regarding how wet I should keep the medium, since I know that VFTs need moisture, but they also need soil aeration. The wetter the soil, the less light is getting through. I'm trying to go with "damp but not wet" but it's not easy to control that, in bright sunlight or in light rain. I'm also waffling about trying to extract the plants as they appear, and replanting them in a better medium: carefully sterilized and with a better composition. That kind of disturbance isn't good for plants just out of the seed, whose roots are very fragile.

Here's a picture of one of the most recent arrivals, taken with my phone through a 10x tripod magnifier that I bought for high-school biology, way-back-when. I've been marking the plants' locations with diamonds cut from plastic mesh from a bag of onions, side length about 8.5 mm. The shiny black seed coat is visible towards the bottom, with the first leaf still partly inside it. I think that the still-tinier leaf above that is showing the beginning of a trap.

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I've read that VFT seedlings develop slowly, but how slowly is "slowly"? Some of my seedlings have been up for more than a week, and I'm seeing very little change in any of them after they get above ground. Several haven't shed the seed coats that were pushed up with the seed leaves. How long before the first "true" leaves, with miniature traps, should be out? I'm used to watching much larger seeds, with lots of resources stored in them and with roots that absorb nutrients from their environments. I can speculate that perhaps the plants are putting their energy into developing the rhizome and roots before getting back to the leaves, but I'd like to reduce my uncertainty.

EDIT: If my seedlings are developing abnormally slowly, that would nudge me in the direction of trying to repot them in a more suitable medium, despite the risks of disturbing them when they're young and fragile. If they're not going to develop properly as they are, it would be better to lose, say, half of them but rescue the other half.
 
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Babies' first teeth.
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The side length of the orange mesh is, again, about 8.5 mm, so the traps are currently about 2.5 mm long. They're showing a bit of pinkness but aren't really open yet.

I've had about 18 seedlings appear. I've been waffling over how damp to keep the substrate. If it's relatively dry, and therefore light-coloured and light-transmitting, I think that would encourage more seeds to germinate. But it needs to be damp enough to keep the seedlings happy. I'm leaning towards giving up on more seeds; 18 should be enough for my needs, assuming that I don't lose many. All of the plants are in just one of the trays, and I'll keep hoping for more in the other two trays, which I'll keep a bit drier. If I try growing VFT seeds in the future, I'll cover them with something light-coloured, such as silica sand or perlite powder.
 
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I figured as much. I was surprised that they appeared at all in response to my having kept the substrate barely damp.
 
These are my seedlings, iv started most of them around sept to Dec of 2023 and this is what they look like only one dionaea muscipula "cps tie-dye" is close even remotely close to being feed-able
 

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A couple of weeks ago, my kitchen had a minor invasion by tiny ants. I collected them and put them in a vial in the freezer. Last night, I fed the widest-open of my traps with the head of one of those ants. It was a bit large, but the trap seems to have closed around it. I fed another trap with a few grains of textured vegetable protein powder. In another couple of days when more traps have opened, I'll try one with a tiny bit of dried tofu, since tofu was a big success with the adult VFTs last year.

The red glands on the inside of the traps are quite striking when the traps are tiny, when the room is relatively dark and the traps are back-lit by a good light. The glands are comparatively big brightly-coloured bumps under good magnification, and there are only a few of them. I wasn't able to get a good picture — I should have taken pictures of the wide-open traps before feeding them. The depth of field with my 10x magnifier and camera is too shallow to give a clear picture, in focus, when the traps are only slightly open and mostly vertical. And the young traps aren't strongly coloured yet. Unfortunately, Ottawa's expected to have several days of rain, so we're not going to have bright sun to help the traps mature.
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The trap that I'd fed with the ant head opened after a few days, easing my fear that I'd damaged it by pushing in that "large" object. I took a couple of pictures as stereo pairs, which makes the bumps of the glands more visible. Again, the traps are about 2.5mm long.

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I wish I could figure out some way to reload my wife's discarded insulin pen injectors. They dispense carefully-calibrated amounts of liquid in increments of 10 microlitres, from a fine stainless-steel tube (the needle, which can be cut and smoothed to avoid scratching the target) by a thumb-press. They would be perfect for feeding the traps directly with some kind of food paste.
 
On further thought... 10 microlitres is much too great a volume for the first tiny traps. It's equivalent to a volume 1 mm × 1 mm × 1 cm, and I need something more like (1 mm)³ ... or perhaps half of that. The finest syringe I've seen used a fairly fine stainless-steel wire as its "plunger", in a glass body; its total capacity was probably on the order of a microlitre. Now, I've got some 1-mm stainless rod and some stainless tubing just large enough to accommodate it, so I might be able to use that. If I'm careful.
 
On further thought... 10 microlitres is much too great a volume for the first tiny traps. It's equivalent to a volume 1 mm × 1 mm × 1 cm, and I need something more like (1 mm)³ ... or perhaps half of that. The finest syringe I've seen used a fairly fine stainless-steel wire as its "plunger", in a glass body; its total capacity was probably on the order of a microlitre. Now, I've got some 1-mm stainless rod and some stainless tubing just large enough to accommodate it, so I might be able to use that. If I'm careful.
You could try these. Smallest size looks like 0.1-2.5 ul

edit: it doesnt look like they still matching tips for the 0.1-2.5 ul size so maybe 0.5-10 ul would be a better choice
 
Wow, that takes me back. I've used similar devices, though not in the low end of that volume range... more like 100-1000 μL, as I recall, and that was about 40 years ago. I miss that stuff. I'll have to think about that; I've had some bad experiences with AliExpress, enough to make me very reluctant to buy from that site.
 
When I fed baby VFT's with liquid, I just let it overflow on the little traps.
Do the traps close on the liquid? Or do the glands absorb nutrients even when they haven't been activated? I guess that I'm wondering if the plants are absorbing that nutrient via the traps, or if they're just picking up the diluted nutrient through their roots.
 
The traps didn't close as I recall. The seedlings seemed to grow much better when I treated them that way. But I didn't do controls.
 
Wow, that takes me back. I've used similar devices, though not in the low end of that volume range... more like 100-1000 μL, as I recall, and that was about 40 years ago. I miss that stuff. I'll have to think about that; I've had some bad experiences with AliExpress, enough to make me very reluctant to buy from that site.
This vendor specifically has been very reliable for me. I have two of those micropipettes and they work great
 
The finest syringe I've seen used a fairly fine stainless-steel wire as its "plunger", in a glass body; its total capacity was probably on the order of a microlitre.

Sounds like a Hamilton syringe. You can get some 50uL ones on Amazon, they aren't cheap but are accurate, high precision, and last forever if taken care of.
 
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