My grow tent

[Smilodonichthys]

After noticing some interest about setups I figured I'd show mine now that I have it dialed in. It has evolved from a single wire rack with some 1020 trays and sunblaster lights to this climate controlled nightmare of cable management monstrosity.

I have this 4'x8' grow tent set up in an unheated area so that I can get nice cool temps in the winter and moderate temps in the summer for winter growing Drosera, Disa, Cephalotus, Darlingtonia, various bog plant seedlings and Mexi pings. It's much easier to heat a grow space than it is to cool one so it's in the coldest room in my house. The temps range between 15°c nights - 25°c days mid summer and 5°c nights - 15°c days mid winter. The lights are set to turn on overnight and off during the day to take advantage of the heat from the lights in the winter and keep it cool when the lights are on in the summer. Lights are controlled via smart plug to a dedicated light Power strip.

Light schedule is 10.5hrs on winter solstice and 14.5 hrs on summer solstice with gradual increase/decrease between. This is roughly the day length of where most of these plants grow. The lights are controlled with smart plugs.

I have a dehumidifier to control humidity. I keep it at around 80% in the summer and 60% in the winter.

Heat is mostly provided by the lights and dehumidifier but I have a small grow tent heater that kicks on when needed. I also have some heat mats that I put under trays to help germination and seedling growth in winter.

Cooling is from an inline fan with a sensor that can pump cooler air into the tent when the temps get high. The filter of the inline fan is on the intake to help keep fungi/moss spores out. Having the inline fan set to push air in also keeps the tent at positive pressure to minimize contamination.

Three oscillating fans keep the air moving inside the tent. These are also controlled by smart plugs set to shut off every so often to reduce wear.

Grow tent:
-Fusion hut 4'D x 8'W x 6.5'H 600D

Shelves:
-Trinity 24"D x 48"W x 72"H 4 tier
-Finnhomy NSF 18"D x 18"W x 72"H 7 tier split in half and attached to the above larger racks on one end

Lights:
-Right side 6x Spider Farmer SF1000
-Top left 1x Viparspectra SX3000 Pro
-Bottom left 6x 48" sunblaster 6400k LED (3 per shelf)
-Small racks 6x SpeePlant LED grow light strips. One for each shelf. These smaller shelves are for lower light plants

Dehumidifier:
-Midea cube 20 Pint

Heater:
-AC Infinity Thermoforge T3

Inline fan:
-Spider Farmer 6 Inch inline fan with temperature and humidity controller

Clip on oscillating fans:
-2x Vivosun AeroWave E6
-1x AC Infinity Cloudray S6

Power strip/smart plugs/thermo-hygrometer:
-2x CRST 12 outlet power strips (One for the lights, controlled by a smart plug and the other directly plugged in to the outlet for fans, etc.)
-6x TP-Link Smart Plug Mini
-1x Govee Wi-Fi Thermo-Hygrometer

~100 zip ties

Hopefully this helps others plan their grow space. I spent many hours researching and planning this setup. There isn't much I'd change at this point other than maybe getting lower watt lights. The higher watt ones are set to 50% because at full brightness they were turning even Drosera capensis yellow and stunting growth at full blast ~16" from the crown. I also have to consider the entire possible watts on one circuit for safety reasons even though I'm not using close to the full wattage. If I were to do it again I'd likely go with Willy's lights. They seem to be the ideal wattage and I've seen from others how well they work for pretty much every carnivorous plant. Nice and low profile too.

 

[Smilodonichthys]

Should also mention the trays. They are Garland brand "Giant plus tray" (The large ones) and "Standard gravel tray" (The smaller ones). They are great trays. More space efficient than 1020s.

 

[31drew31]

Looks great and very neat/organized. Always cool to see other people's set ups, thanks for sharing!

 

[kcskou]

After noticing some interest about setups I figured I'd show mine now that I have it dialed in. It has evolved from a single wire rack with some 1020 trays and sunblaster lights to this climate controlled nightmare of cable management monstrosity.

I have this 4'x8' grow tent set up in an unheated area so that I can get nice cool temps in the winter and moderate temps in the summer for winter growing Drosera, Disa, Cephalotus, Darlingtonia, various bog plant seedlings and Mexi pings. It's much easier to heat a grow space than it is to cool one so it's in the coldest room in my house. The temps range between 15°c nights - 25°c days mid summer and 5°c nights - 15°c days mid winter. The lights are set to turn on overnight and off during the day to take advantage of the heat from the lights in the winter and keep it cool when the lights are on in the summer. Lights are controlled via smart plug to a dedicated light Power strip.

Light schedule is 10.5hrs on winter solstice and 14.5 hrs on summer solstice with gradual increase/decrease between. This is roughly the day length of where most of these plants grow. The lights are controlled with smart plugs.

I have a dehumidifier to control humidity. I keep it at around 80% in the summer and 60% in the winter.

Heat is mostly provided by the lights and dehumidifier but I have a small grow tent heater that kicks on when needed. I also have some heat mats that I put under trays to help germination and seedling growth in winter.

Cooling is from an inline fan with a sensor that can pump cooler air into the tent when the temps get high. The filter of the inline fan is on the intake to help keep fungi/moss spores out. Having the inline fan set to push air in also keeps the tent at positive pressure to minimize contamination.

Three oscillating fans keep the air moving inside the tent. These are also controlled by smart plugs set to shut off every so often to reduce wear.

Grow tent:
-Fusion hut 4'D x 8'W x 6.5'H 600D

Shelves:
-Trinity 24"D x 48"W x 72"H 4 tier
-Finnhomy NSF 18"D x 18"W x 72"H 7 tier split in half and attached to the above larger racks on one end

Lights:
-Right side 6x Spider Farmer SF1000
-Top left 1x Viparspectra SX3000 Pro
-Bottom left 6x 48" sunblaster 6400k LED (3 per shelf)
-Small racks 6x SpeePlant LED grow light strips. One for each shelf. These smaller shelves are for lower light plants

Dehumidifier:
-Midea cube 20 Pint

Heater:
-AC Infinity Thermoforge T3

Inline fan:
-Spider Farmer 6 Inch inline fan with temperature and humidity controller

Clip on oscillating fans:
-2x Vivosun AeroWave E6
-1x AC Infinity Cloudray S6

Power strip/smart plugs/thermo-hygrometer:
-2x CRST 12 outlet power strips (One for the lights, controlled by a smart plug and the other directly plugged in to the outlet for fans, etc.)
-6x TP-Link Smart Plug Mini
-1x Govee Wi-Fi Thermo-Hygrometer

~100 zip ties

Hopefully this helps others plan their grow space. I spent many hours researching and planning this setup. There isn't much I'd change at this point other than maybe getting lower watt lights. The higher watt ones are set to 50% because at full brightness they were turning even Drosera capensis yellow and stunting growth at full blast ~16" from the crown. I also have to consider the entire possible watts on one circuit for safety reasons even though I'm not using close to the full wattage. If I were to do it again I'd likely go with Willy's lights. They seem to be the ideal wattage and I've seen from others how well they work for pretty much every carnivorous plant. Nice and low profile too.
View attachment 31261View attachment 31262View attachment 31263View attachment 31264

Thanks for sharing the result of your hard work - do you mind also sharing: 1) what “Willy’s light” is referring to? 2) what is the dimension of those square pots, and brand (if any), or where to get them? So space efficient and satisfying!

 

[Lloyd Gordon]

I hope that setup doesn't achieve singularity!

 

[barvinok]

Very impressive! So neatly organized and efficient.
Thank you for sharing.

 

[Smilodonichthys]

Thanks for sharing the result of your hard work - do you mind also sharing: 1) what “Willy’s light” is referring to? 2) what is the dimension of those square pots, and brand (if any), or where to get them? So space efficient and satisfying!

Willy from the forum here has designed and sells LED panel lights. They can be found here: http://www.carnivorousplantsociety.ca/index.php?threads/led-growlights-for-sale.4659/. The pots are 3.5" and are labelled as Solo 350. I get them in bulk from a local horticulture supply store.

 

[Smilodonichthys]

I hope that setup doesn't achieve singularity!

I kinda hope it does. As its creator I should be fine right? If Ray Kurzweil is right, with my grow tent and reprogramming my biochemistry with alkaline water, red wine and green tea I'm going to be immortal!

 

[kcskou]

Dehumidifier:
-Midea cube 20 Pint

Curious what is the purpose of the dehumidifier? Is it for collecting irrigation water? I thought higher humidity is preferred by sundews and pings so that the mucilage doesn’t dry out. I even put a humidifier in the room for them because in the winter the heating dries out the air.

 

[Lloyd Gordon]

"I have a dehumidifier to control humidity. I keep it at around 80% in the summer and 60% in the winter"
BTW, dehumidifier water has high aluminum, probably best to avoid.

 

[Smilodonichthys]

Curious what is the purpose of the dehumidifier? Is it for collecting irrigation water? I thought higher humidity is preferred by sundews and pings so that the mucilage doesn’t dry out. I even put a humidifier in the room for them because in the winter the heating dries out the air.

The cool winter temps and high humidity are a recipe for disaster for a few of the plants I grow in there. The pings in particular do best at lower humidity when in succulent phase. Winter is the dry season where most of that taxon grow in Mexico. Before the dehumidifier there were times where it was close to 100% humidity, with a mist in the tent and drips of condensation dropping from the roof. That tended to happen when the temps outside the tent were lower than inside. Drips on succulent phase pings often lead to crown rot.

 

[Smilodonichthys]

"I have a dehumidifier to control humidity. I keep it at around 80% in the summer and 60% in the winter"
BTW, dehumidifier water has high aluminum, probably best to avoid.

Thanks Lloyd, I appreciate the advice from someone who has actually tested the Dehumidifier water. I have been tempted to use it but after looking into it I don't think I'll take the chance.

 

[kcskou]

The cool winter temps and high humidity are a recipe for disaster for a few of the plants I grow in there. The pings in particular do best at lower humidity when in succulent phase. Winter is the dry season where most of that taxon grow in Mexico. Before the dehumidifier there were times where it was close to 100% humidity, with a mist in the tent and drips of condensation dropping from the roof. That tended to happen when the temps outside the tent were lower than inside. Drips on succulent phase pings often lead to crown rot.

I see where my confusion lies - since I am growing the Mexican pings right now in end of November with summer temps, light, and humidity. Sorry if I sounded like asking questions before reading the whole post.

Did I set my Mexican pings up for failure by not planning to give them a winter season at all? Can I grow them in summer conditions as long as they’re not turning into succulent forms?

 

[Olivera]

After noticing some interest about setups I figured I'd show mine now that I have it dialed in. It has evolved from a single wire rack with some 1020 trays and sunblaster lights to this climate controlled nightmare of cable management monstrosity.

I have this 4'x8' grow tent set up in an unheated area so that I can get nice cool temps in the winter and moderate temps in the summer for winter growing Drosera, Disa, Cephalotus, Darlingtonia, various bog plant seedlings and Mexi pings. It's much easier to heat a grow space than it is to cool one so it's in the coldest room in my house. The temps range between 15°c nights - 25°c days mid summer and 5°c nights - 15°c days mid winter. The lights are set to turn on overnight and off during the day to take advantage of the heat from the lights in the winter and keep it cool when the lights are on in the summer. Lights are controlled via smart plug to a dedicated light Power strip.

Light schedule is 10.5hrs on winter solstice and 14.5 hrs on summer solstice with gradual increase/decrease between. This is roughly the day length of where most of these plants grow. The lights are controlled with smart plugs.

I have a dehumidifier to control humidity. I keep it at around 80% in the summer and 60% in the winter.

Heat is mostly provided by the lights and dehumidifier but I have a small grow tent heater that kicks on when needed. I also have some heat mats that I put under trays to help germination and seedling growth in winter.

Cooling is from an inline fan with a sensor that can pump cooler air into the tent when the temps get high. The filter of the inline fan is on the intake to help keep fungi/moss spores out. Having the inline fan set to push air in also keeps the tent at positive pressure to minimize contamination.

Three oscillating fans keep the air moving inside the tent. These are also controlled by smart plugs set to shut off every so often to reduce wear.

Grow tent:
-Fusion hut 4'D x 8'W x 6.5'H 600D

Shelves:
-Trinity 24"D x 48"W x 72"H 4 tier
-Finnhomy NSF 18"D x 18"W x 72"H 7 tier split in half and attached to the above larger racks on one end

Lights:
-Right side 6x Spider Farmer SF1000
-Top left 1x Viparspectra SX3000 Pro
-Bottom left 6x 48" sunblaster 6400k LED (3 per shelf)
-Small racks 6x SpeePlant LED grow light strips. One for each shelf. These smaller shelves are for lower light plants

Dehumidifier:
-Midea cube 20 Pint

Heater:
-AC Infinity Thermoforge T3

Inline fan:
-Spider Farmer 6 Inch inline fan with temperature and humidity controller

Clip on oscillating fans:
-2x Vivosun AeroWave E6
-1x AC Infinity Cloudray S6

Power strip/smart plugs/thermo-hygrometer:
-2x CRST 12 outlet power strips (One for the lights, controlled by a smart plug and the other directly plugged in to the outlet for fans, etc.)
-6x TP-Link Smart Plug Mini
-1x Govee Wi-Fi Thermo-Hygrometer

~100 zip ties

Hopefully this helps others plan their grow space. I spent many hours researching and planning this setup. There isn't much I'd change at this point other than maybe getting lower watt lights. The higher watt ones are set to 50% because at full brightness they were turning even Drosera capensis yellow and stunting growth at full blast ~16" from the crown. I also have to consider the entire possible watts on one circuit for safety reasons even though I'm not using close to the full wattage. If I were to do it again I'd likely go with Willy's lights. They seem to be the ideal wattage and I've seen from others how well they work for pretty much every carnivorous plant. Nice and low profile too.
View attachment 31261View attachment 31262View attachment 31263View attachment 31264

So cool,so neat!

 

[Lloyd Gordon]

If they go succulent, keep them on the dry side. If they don't, no worries.

 

[Smilodonichthys]

I see where my confusion lies - since I am growing the Mexican pings right now in end of November with summer temps, light, and humidity. Sorry if I sounded like asking questions before reading the whole post.

Did I set my Mexican pings up for failure by not planning to give them a winter season at all? Can I grow them in summer conditions as long as they’re not turning into succulent forms?

Nah, you're good. Mexican Pinguicula can be grown at the same higher temps all year. They just tend to go into and out of succulent phase or stay in one phase or the other somewhat randomly with consistent light and temps. I adjust light, humidity and temps because I'm interested in seeing them change with the seasons and I believe many of them flower more reliably that way.

No worries. I thought that was a good question that probably wasn't explained well in the original post and I'm always happy to clarify.

 

[kcskou]

The filter of the inline fan is on the intake to help keep fungi/moss spores out.

I come back to this thread every so often for reference as I set up my tent

Now I am working on adding a filter upstream of the inline fan. If you don’t mind me asking, what specifications matter when it comes to keeping spores out? Material/size of the pores? I took a quick look at AC Infinity’s filters (since my inline fan is that brand) and they are carbon filters that are advertised for odour control (which I don’t really care for, so I am doubtful that I am looking in the right place).

 

[Lloyd Gordon]

I don't think you should worry about keeping spores out. Possibly moss spores could be removed by a typical prefilter used before a HEPA filter. Fungal spores would require a small pore HEPA filter and a fan that could provide a good pressure gradient. This would be crazy loud for a grow area and would also heat the room to a degree.
Good hygiene, yes, as much as you care to do. However spores will come through the air no matter what you do.

 

[Smilodonichthys]

I come back to this thread every so often for reference as I set up my tent

Now I am working on adding a filter upstream of the inline fan. If you don’t mind me asking, what specifications matter when it comes to keeping spores out? Material/size of the pores? I took a quick look at AC Infinity’s filters (since my inline fan is that brand) and they are carbon filters that are advertised for odour control (which I don’t really care for, so I am doubtful that I am looking in the right place).

I'm glad to hear you're finding it useful.

I just use the regular carbon filter with the pre-filter cloth sleeve that the fan came with. I'm sure Lloyd is right in that it doesn't completely filter spores. I do think it helps though. Having the inline fan outside to push in filtered air creates positive pressure in the tent which can't hurt. The usual way of setting it up inside the tent to vent pulls completely unfiltered air into the tent from many directions and has the added disadvantage of taking up valuable growing space.

There's very little annoying moss in my grow tent but as soon as I take those same pots out to the area right beside it they quickly develop a moss layer. Of course there could be other variables besides the filter I'm not considering. I'm so far able to easily keep the moss in check anyway. Maybe I'm just delaying the inevitable and will end up with a bunch of moss eventually.

Next upgrade might be an inline UV sterilization system set up after the filter! Cue happy B.C. hydro noises