I have a similar bottom watering setup that scales quite well even with the number of pings like you have. Lloyd waters from the top, but you are wicking water up from the bottom - in my experience that difference needs to be taken into account together with the other factors like the substrate. Here we want to make the root zone of the pings drier to reduce rot. For top watering, shallower pot means less substrate, so less moisture is retained and is harder to overwater. But for bottom watering, sitting in a tray of water means the same advice would make the root zone of the pings wetter not drier. Since water is wicked up, to reduce the moisture higher up you want to use deeper pots not shallower. If you increase the depth of the substrate, the top layer that the ping touches will be drier and less prone to rot.by shallower, you mean trays or pots? This is the setup I have now, you will see some pings just rot and not others.
Your pings are gorgeous, so vibrant. What kind of lights are those? I moved two trays to new substrate and put them under a dome until they are adjusted. One tray is 2:1:1 of Perlite/Vermiculite/Coarse sand the other is 3:1.5:1 of Perlite/pumice/milled spagnum. I added a tiny bit of dolomite lime granules to each. The reason I don't use pots is to maximize production and save money. I filled them to 2 inches and bottom water 1/2 inch when my water indicator is dry a couple days. I also keep pings on rocks and they do amazing on those for the most part but even then, on certain rocks, in certain places, it's too damp. I have a source on Ebay that will do a wick test before I buy a pumice rock. Some wick very well or too well, others not so much. So I will pluck off pings that are looking overwatered and put them on a separate recovery rock that is not as damp but I still lose them once the process has started. If you look at these 2 ping rocks, one I've have for a couple years, no problem. The other heart shaped one has one side that is good and the other is iffy. I really don't know why. It's challenging to figure out the best setup for these beautiful plants, but that's why I enjoy this hobby.I have a similar bottom watering setup that scales quite well even with the number of pings like you have. Lloyd waters from the top, but you are wicking water up from the bottom - in my experience that difference needs to be taken into account together with the other factors like the substrate. Here we want to make the root zone of the pings drier to reduce rot. For top watering, shallower pot means less substrate, so less moisture is retained and is harder to overwater. But for bottom watering, sitting in a tray of water means the same advice would make the root zone of the pings wetter not drier. Since water is wicked up, to reduce the moisture higher up you want to use deeper pots not shallower. If you increase the depth of the substrate, the top layer that the ping touches will be drier and less prone to rot.
In my case, most pings were quite happy with a depth of about 3 inches of just fine (sand like) pumice even when I never let the tray completely dry out. However, I sometimes find some wet mushy leaves at the base of some pings when I repot, so in the future I would increase it to 4 inch or use a slightly chunkier pumice.
Your substrate seems to be less than 3 inch deep, plus your mix has vermiculite, which holds more moisture than just pumice. So it is not surprising that the root zone of your pings are wetter and you are seeing more rot.
Try to provide some fresh air flow around the pings to help the top layer stay drier too.
But at this time of the year many of the pings are going into winter succulent mode. I am trying something new and less work - I just move the pings that start to grow winter leaves to a tray with no water and plan to just leave them alone (no water, feeding, or fertilizing) for the rest period. So far I find that they are still growing succulent leaves without water for weeks and I am monitoring them in case they shrivel up and die. But most of them look very good - the drought and cooler temperature even triggered a lot of them to flower, which is validating to see. It is easy for me to move them to a dry tray incrementally because I grow them in small square pots (2.5”x2.5”) - it may be a bit trickier with your large flats. You just have to move the whole flat together I guess.
My Raspberry Blonde started pushing out its first flower around the time I hold back refilling the tray near the end of November. It is Jan 10 now and that flower is still in full bloom and I see two more flower buds on their way.
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Thanks for your kind wordsYour pings are gorgeous, so vibrant. What kind of lights are those?
In my experience, if the ping has already sent down roots into the substrate (as opposed to no roots, like a leaf pulling) generally it is easier to kill them by overwatering than underwatering.how hard is it to kill a ping by NOT watering it. Are there signs they need water, like drooping or shriveling leaves? Or do they just go dormant and shrink when no water is available?
Yes, they came already crushed in a bag. I literally just copied what @Smilodonichthys does with his setup. Pumice could be costly depending on where you are, but it does not really break down and with a single component it is easy to reuse. I was able to buy pumice in bulk for cheaper, they are much chunkier than sand-size, as large as 3-6mm, but to my surprise the pings are still doing very well in them. Pumice wicks water so well while staying aerated, making it quite ideal for pings and really propagating plants in general. This summer I let the pots sit in 1-2 cm of filtered 0ppm water and refill the tray back to 1-2 cm once it dries out (2-4 days depending on temperature and air humidity). Many times I did not even wait and just keep maintaining that water level. If the tray dries out the pings won’t really feel it immediately since there is still a lot of moisture in 3 inch deep pumice. Honestly it is so easy once I set it up and I can’t find the motivation to try any DIY mix haha.So, you only have crushed pumice in those pots? That is essentially a pumice rock broken up into little pieces. How often do you need to water them when not succulent?
For me it was fungus gnats infestation haha. Same story otherwise. Honestly your pings look great to meIt all started when I started looking for a plant solution for a fruit fly infestation.
The cheapest I could find here in BC (with acceptable quality) is $37 for 25L. They were labeled as 3-12mm but the bag I got is mostly within 3-6mm so I didn’t really have to sieve it and it is small enough for the pings - actually they stay drier with fewer mushy leaves or mold than the 1-4mm pumice that I had been using before this cheaper batch.Best quality I found was from Home Depot and was $80 for a 20l and 1/4" sized