2024 Tuberous Drosera Seed Sale - CLOSED

This comes conveniently timed. I had fallen down a tuberous drosera internet rabbit hole a couple weeks ago, and couldn't figure out where to actually *get* the ones I was interested in.

I do have a question though. Do you (anyone, really) have thoughts on the difference in forms of the resulting offspring between, e.g., 'D. rupicola “Bronze-red” x stolonifera' and 'D. stolonifera x rupicola “Bronze-red” ' ?
 
Haha what perfect timing! Yesterday I was just thinking about how much i want to try tuberous dews! And now this!
But i have some questions, are these different than other tropical dews? How do you get them to germinate? And are some more difficult than others? Which ones?
 
This comes conveniently timed. I had fallen down a tuberous drosera internet rabbit hole a couple weeks ago, and couldn't figure out where to actually *get* the ones I was interested in.

I do have a question though. Do you (anyone, really) have thoughts on the difference in forms of the resulting offspring between, e.g., 'D. rupicola “Bronze-red” x stolonifera' and 'D. stolonifera x rupicola “Bronze-red” ' ?

Agree, once you get a hang of growing them, they are quite addictive!

With regards to any difference between hybrid tuberous dew progeny resulting from A x B vs. B x A (where the seed parent is stated first and the second, the pollen donor parent), I'm not aware of any controlled studies to assess this. Anecdotally, however, I (and other growers) have noticed that the F1 offspring retains the traits (phenotype) of the seed parent. So it would appear that cross-pollination triggers selfing somehow, which has been informally referred to as the "foreign pollen trick". I've seen this with some ZA Drosera hybrid seed, such cistiflora x pauciflora. The resulting plant was identical in appearance to cistiflora, producing stems, etc. What's happening at the genetic level though may be a mystery awaiting sequencing studies to resolve
 
Last edited:
Haha what perfect timing! Yesterday I was just thinking about how much i want to try tuberous dews! And now this!
But i have some questions, are these different than other tropical dews? How do you get them to germinate? And are some more difficult than others? Which ones?

If you're new to growing tuberous Drosera, I would recommend trying first auriculata, peltata, hookeri or gracilis, as no special treatment for the seed is necessary, especially if they're fresh. Growing conditions are similar to a capensis. Unless you have intermediate or highland conditions, I would wait until autumn when temps will be cooler for several months and seedlings will be able to grow longer (temperatures above 20 C may induce dormancy). Their tubers are also more tolerant of wet media during their summer dormancy and less prone to rot. Squamosa, stolonifera, macrophylla and others are trickier to manage in summer dormancy where the medium should be just damp.
 
Agree, once you get a hang of growing them, they are quite addictive!

With regards to any difference between hybrid tuberous dew progeny resulting from A x B vs. B x A (where the seed parent is stated first and the second, the pollen donor parent), I'm not aware of any controlled studies to assess this. Anecdotally, however, I (and other growers) have noticed that the F1 offspring retains the traits (phenotype) of the seed parent. So it would appear that cross-pollination triggers selfing somehow, which has been informally referred to as the "foreign pollen trick". I've seen this with some ZA Drosera hybrid seed, such cistiflora x pauciflora. The resulting plant was identical in appearance to cistiflora, producing stems, etc. What's happening at the genetic level though may be a mystery awaiting sequencing studies
Thanks! That's very helpful.

As a sort-of follow-up, what would you say are the main differences between the three (two?) D. stolonifera varieties involved your crosses?
 
If you're new to growing tuberous Drosera, I would recommend trying first auriculata, peltata, hookeri or gracilis, as no special treatment for the seed is necessary, especially if they're fresh. Growing conditions are similar to a capensis. Unless you have intermediate or highland conditions, I would wait until autumn when temps will be cooler for several months and seedlings will be able to grow longer (temperatures above 20 C may induce dormancy). Their tubers are also more tolerant of wet media during their summer dormancy and less prone to rot. Squamosa, stolonifera, macrophylla and others are trickier to manage in summer dormancy where the medium should be just damp.
Hi thank you for your response. I grow in a tent that usually gets day temperatures just above 20 c and down to 15-18 c at night the winter, and 26-32c days and 18-20c nights in the summer. Would these temps work? Or would outside growing work better (North Vancouver BC, Zone 8b rarely gets below freezing but sometimes does) maybe a cold frame?
And does D, platypoda fit into the more beginner friendly category or is it challenging?
Sorry to bombard you with questions, but i very much want to grow these plants but i don’t know if I can. Thanks in advance!
 
Hi thank you for your response. I grow in a tent that usually gets day temperatures just above 20 c and down to 15-18 c at night the winter, and 26-32c days and 18-20c nights in the summer. Would these temps work? Or would outside growing work better (North Vancouver BC, Zone 8b rarely gets below freezing but sometimes does) maybe a cold frame?
And does D, platypoda fit into the more beginner friendly category or is it challenging?
Sorry to bombard you with questions, but i very much want to grow these plants but i don’t know if I can. Thanks in advance!

No problem, glad to help. Your winter tent conditions sound good for growing the ones I mentioned from the Peltata Complex. In summer, they would go dormant with those temps and reemerge when temps start dropping consistently in September. Non-Peltata Complex species might also work in the tent but I have no experience growing them above 20 C (the presumed temp threshold that can trigger dormancy with most species). I keep mine 12 to 18 C by a cold south facing window during the winter growing months.

Having said this, I believe you will have much better luck growing them outside protected in a cold frame (eg. aquarium), as your winter temps sound ideal and so long as it doesn't freeze or exceed ~18 C. They don't need a lot of direct light, just a few hours/day and will color up well.

I would classify D. platypoda as intermediate in difficulty. Certainly not as difficult as zonaria or as easy as auriculata. I don't do anything special while they're in growth, other than to provide cool conditions, tray water and bright light for most of the day.

See this link for more info
 
Interested with this, i have hookeri seeds and until it hasnt pop out huhu just got the seeds last year. All of my drosera seeds have already germinated except for burmani, trinivera and this one. Idk what i am doing wrong it is the same setup as capensis typicals that i did
 
Thanks! That's very helpful.

As a sort-of follow-up, what would you say are the main differences between the three (two?) D. stolonifera varieties involved your crosses?

Np! That's a good question for which I wish there was good answer. In the short time growing the Giant Hills Form, it looks identical to my regular stolonifera. I've searched around but couldn't find info about any difference. Perhaps there's something mentioned in Allen Lowrie’s Magnum Opus?
 
My seeds from @cpgeek got here today! :D It's exciting.

Now I just have to figure out the best way to heat stratify them. I guess there's always the teabag method.
 
Back
Top